How to make a Plantaganet Cap

From an class given by Baroness Danabren Madadh-Mara



1) Draw a gentle arc on brown paper or newspaper, appoximately 3" wide. Lower edge of arc should be measurement across brow, plus approximately 1/2"



2) Check fit. Adjust angle, height, etc. *here*. The fit should be loose, as fabric and tape will thicken it up.



3) Cover paper pattern in duct tape, both inside and out. 2 layers should be sufficient. Be sure to cover the entire surface of the pattern - this makes the cap waterproof and camp proof!

4) Place pattern on fabric and trace around, leaving at least 1/2' seam allowance on all sides. Cut out fabric. This will be your inner lining.




5) For a Plain Cap: Cut out 2 more layers as above. Baste together within seam allowance, forming one double thick layer. This will be your outer layer. Stich lining and outer layers together along upper arc, wrong sides together



6) Stitch ends of cover together, wrong sides together, and clip curve. Tape ends of tape-covered pattern piece together to fit exactly too loose, and fit to outside cover.



7) Turn Cap right side out, turning under seam allowance at bottom, tucking to INSIDE of cap. Hand sew edges together.



8) For a Box Pleat: Create a box pleat (see following directions), making sure to leave at least1/2" of seam allowance. It will be necessary to gently tweak the pleats to allow them to allow for the curve of the pattern piece.

9) Using the upper edge of your lining as a guide, sew inner lining and pleats together, wrong sides together.



10) Finish as Steps 5 and 6.

Box Pleat



1) Edge of Fabric - Begin measuring here, plus 1/2" seam allowance.

2) LENGTH from edge of 1st line (1st fold) - equals 1/2 the width of fabric.

3) LENGTH from 1st line to 4th line (1st fold and 2nd fold and 3rd fold and 4th fold) - equals twice width of fabric<./font>

4) LENGTH from 4th line (4th fold) to 5th line (5th fold) - equals width of fabric.



A) 1/2 width of the fabric

B) Width of the fabric

C) Twice width of fabric

Some Documentary Material




Drawing by Villard de Honnencourt. Thirteenth Century. Paris, Bib. Nat. Ms. fr. 19093 f. 27




Statue of Countess Uta, Nurenberg Cathedral, Thirteenth Century




Statue of a Lady, after 1230, from Chartres Cathedral (taken from the 'Book of Costume', Millar and Davenport, Crown Publishers, 1976)




Thirteenth Century portrait head, from a tomb. (taken from the 'Book of Costume', Millar and Davenport, Crown Publishers, 1976)




Ummm, I dunno. There's no blurb for it, it's just on the same page... I added the little square highlighting the lady in question.(taken from the 'Book of Costume', Millar and Davenport, Crown Publishers, 1976)



Aspects of the early fourteenth century, from the Manesse anthology, c. 1300-50 taken, I believe, from the Barber and Barker book 'Tournaments'




Departure for a tournament (below) and return from a tournament (above) taken from 'The Reign of Chivalry' by Richard Barber, St. Martins Press, 1980




Scenes from Gottfried's 'Tristan' taken from 'The Reign of Chivalry' by Richard Barber, St. Martins Press, 1980


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